Pursuit of a Superb Lather
A superb lather is born from curiosity, experimentation, and repetition. There’s no single recipe or technique that works for everyone, in all conditions, at all times. But with a small measure of shaving soap or cream, a good shaving bowl, a quality brush, warm water, a little agitation and time, you’re well on your way to achieving excellent cushion and glide for a comfortable, enjoyable shave.
It’s worth noting that different soaps and creams perform best at different hydration levels, influencing cushion, slickness, and post-shave feel. Most shavers develop personal preferences. Some favor a lather with the density of Greek yogurt, others prefer the lightness of Cool Whip, and some opt for a thinner, ultra-slick consistency. Water hardness can play a role, too. Some soaps lather effortlessly in hard water, while others are more stubborn. For many shavers, distilled water has proven to be a helpful workaround, bringing out the best in a soap and producing a fuller, more satisfying lather.
Why Use a Shaving Bowl?
Wet shavers tend to fall into two camps when it comes to building a great lather: those who prefer a shaving bowl and those who lather directly on the face. Each approach has its pleasures. Face lathering can be deeply satisfying—aromatic, tactile, and effective at prepping the beard.
Bowl lathering, by contrast, offers space to fully develop the lather before application, often resulting in a more consistent lather that can be used across multiple passes. Most bowl users still prep their beards by working the lather into the face to soften hair and prepare the skin, much like face latherers. But because the lather is already developed, this step tends to be quicker and more focused. Bowl lathering also pairs well with today’s softer artisan soaps, which are more prone to waste when loaded directly from the tub. By scooping just the right amount into a bowl, shavers can make the most of their soap and avoid unnecessary waste.
That said, even face latherers often reach for a shaving bowl to load their brush before building a lather on the face. In that sense, a well-designed bowl like ours can be just as useful to those who prefer face lathering.
Beyond function, the bowl serves as a small reservoir during the shave, making it easy to gather more lather for touch-ups without reloading the brush. And for some, it simply adds rhythm and focus, another small pleasure in the process.
Whatever your preference, developing a superb lather is a personal journey, and a good starting point helps. The following suggestions should set you in the right direction. If you’re interested in finer points of lather development, online shaving forums and videos offer a wealth of information.
Our Suggestions
- Scoop or squeeze out approximately an almond-sized amount of shaving soap or cream and place it in the center of your shaving bowl. Spread it into a thin, even layer to help the lather develop more quickly.
- Add a small amount of warm to hot water—usually around a teaspoon—to dampen the soap without flooding the bowl. Be mindful of the water temperature, especially if you’re using a natural-bristle shaving brush, as very hot water can damage the knot. You can also experiment with cold water as some wet shavers prefer it.
- Place the shaving bowl in the palm of your hand. Our shaving bowl is weighted to rest comfortably without needing a firm grip. A dry hand works best to prevent slippage.
- Gently tilt and roll the bowl to allow the water to moisten the soap evenly.
- Wet your shaving brush with warm to hot water, taking the same precaution as mentioned above regarding temperature. If you’re using a natural-bristle brush (such as boar, badger, or horse), soak it in a separate container of warm water for five to ten minutes to fully hydrate the bristles. Standard knots with good flow-through generally work better than high-density knots for bowl lathering.
- After wetting or soaking, remove the brush and shake out most of the water. The brush should be damp, not dripping wet, though personal preference plays a role here too.
- Using light pressure, swirl the brush over the soap in a circular or oval motion, similar to how you might beat eggs with a fork. Rotate your wrist in a smooth, continuous motion to allow the bristles to work the soap into a lather.
- As you build the lather, you can increase the speed of your swirling motion, or keep with a slower, more deliberate technique, whatever is comfortable for you.
- You’ll notice its texture changing. If the mixture starts watery, the initial lather may appear bubbly. Continue swirling until the bubbles shrink and the lather thickens. Gradually add a few drops of water at a time, stirring between additions, until the lather becomes rich, creamy, and firm. If the mixture starts dry, the lather may feel thick and pasty with few or no bubbles. In this case, add a few drops of water at a time while continuing to swirl until the lather takes on a smooth texture.
A rich, creamy lather typically takes three to four minutes to develop. It should have peaks with a velvety, shimmering appearance, not too runny or too thick.
Time is the wet shaver’s gift, and mastering a superb lather takes practice. Be patient, experiment, and find what works best for you. If you have any questions, don’t hesitate to contact us at support@brousseauanddov.com. Happy to help.